Gabardine fabric
Gabardine
fabric is a sturdy,
tightly woven fabric that is used to make overcoats, uniforms, suits,
windbreakers, trousers, and other clothing. The worsted wool was used to make the original fabric, sometimes mixed with cotton, and waterproofed using lanolin before
weaving. Fiber can be pure cotton, textured polyester, or even a blend. The gabardine
fabric is woven as a warp-faced steep or regular twill weave that has a
prominent oblique rib on the face and a smooth surface at the back. It always
has a lot more warp than weft yarn. It is tightly woven and water-resistant but
more comfortable than rubberized fabrics.
History of Gabardine fabric
The
word gabardine is used to refer to a type of long cassock, a specific
item of clothing, but often open to the front, at least after the 15th century.
In the 16th century, used for the outer garments of the poor and was later referred
to as a raincoat or protective smoke frock. The modern use of the term for
fabric instead of clothing is by Thomas Barberry, founder of the Barberry
Fashion House in Hampshire, Basingstoke, England, who invented and revived it.
Characteristics of Gabardine fabric
i.
Gabardine fabric is a tightly woven warp-faced twill weave fabric.
ii.
The surface of the warp-faced fabric has more warp or lengthwise yarns than
fill or crosswise yarns.
iii.
Twill weave fabrics show a diagonal wale, or raised line, on their surface.
iv.
The wale angle in gabardine is 45 or 63 degrees.
v.
Fabric weights range from 7 ounces per square yard to 11 ounces per square yard.
vi.
Fabric density ranges from 76 warp (ends per inch) to 48 fillings (picks per
inch).
vii.
Gabardine is a firm and durable fabric with a hard or clear finish.
The manufacturing process of Gabardine fabric
Gabardine
fabric is a strong and
durable fabric that has a stiff or clear finish. Sizing and shearing remove
projectile surface fibers, fuzz, and naps and make yarn and loom structures
visible. Gabardine is available in a variety of fiber types, weights,
and properties. Gabardine fabric is usually made of wool. The best
quality gabardine uses double-ply continuous yarn but also single-expanded
yarn, double-ply, and single-wool yarn. Even better-quality fabrics are
softer with a nice drop. Inferior fabrics are hard, rough, and stiff. The
durable yarn of double-ply, the warp-joined structure, and the hard finish of
the fabric produce long-wearing and durable fabric. It is available in
all wool, wool, and synthetic blends and acrylics in a medium for clothing too
heavy for suiting weights. It's made of cotton or silk and is strong, compact, and
elegant but not very common. It can also be 100 percent textured polyester or a
cotton-polyester blend. Cotton and textured polyester gabardines
are usually made with a left-hand 2 × 2 tube weave.
Applications of Gabardine
Gabardine
fabric is used for
clothing for men, slacks, jackets, and suits for women, uniforms, skirts,
raincoats, all-weather riding habits, skirts, coats, sportswear, hats, and
fabric shoes. Lightweight gabardine is used for sportswear and dresses
while heavyweight gabardine is used for slacks and more tailored suits.
Excessive wear or extra work during ironing or applying extra pressure can
create a shine in the fabric.
Caring process of Gabardine fabric
Gabardine fabrics are not usually machine-washed. Dry cleaning of wool is recommended. Those that can be washed should be washed by hand and at a temperature of 40 degrees or less. Cotton is washed at a higher temperature than wool. You should be more sensitive to gabardines made from wool. In order not to be too bright, the iron cloth should be used at low temperatures. Gabardine made from synthetic fibers is more sensitive to heat.
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